British fashion heavyweight Burberry Prorsum summoned a biker spirit as it presented the Spring/Summer 2016 collection at London Fashion Week on Monday.
Models wearing leather jackets over fine lace dresses paraded in front of a star-studded audience, in a marriage of the delicate and the powerful.
Burberry's chief creative officer Christopher Bailey had treated fans to a sneak preview of the collection on "Snapchat" on Sunday, ahead of the show at Kensington Gardens, close to the iconic Royal Albert Hall.
Among the hundreds of guests in the church-like glass venue were actress Sienna Miller, supermodels Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne and Vogue chief Anna Wintour.
Soul singer Alison Moyet -- accompanied by a symphony orchestra -- kicked off the ambitious and eclectic show with four songs live from the catwalk.
The lambskin biker jackets -- made at a British factory famed for creating army uniforms since the 18th century -- featured ornate goldwork cording and metal detailing and were "influenced by twentieth century motoring styles", according to the company.
They covered dresses made of lace, one of Bailey's favoured fabrics that he used extensively during the most recent men's collection in June.
The designer returned to another classic with a slim fit adaptation of the Burberry trench coat, whose combination mesh and macrame lace hinted at Bailey's penchant for juggling fabrics.
"It's not so much about the trend, it's more about an emotion and an attitude," he explained to the press.
'A ticket for the ballet'
Nautical influences were explored through double-faced cashmere pea coats with crested buttons and rounded shoulders and the Royal Navy-inspired wooden toggles on the collection's silk satin duffel coats.
Moving to the accessories, the design house presented flexible nylon backpacks with leather fastenings carried by models wearing semi-transparent lace dresses and light coats.
Earlier in the day, Serbian designer Roksanda Ilincic helped transform Marylebone's Seymour Leisure Centre into a dream world of geometric shapes.
Her show was marked by long, fluid dresses that glided down to the ankles in soft, almost pastel tones of blue, white and purple.
The soft-cut designs, which included jumpsuits and a transparent coat with black bands, were conceived with comfort in mind, giving both freedom of movement and of expression.
"I started with references from the modern ballet, from contemporary ballet, but also ballets from 1930s, 40s, 50s, 60s... all the way through to our time," the designer told AFP.
"I was particularly influenced by female dancers and artists who had such beautiful strong bodies, who moved in a very liquid way," she added.
Her show also attracted the rich and famous, with Samantha Cameron, wife of Prime Minister David Cameron and a fashion-week regular, securing a front-row seat.
'Autumnal drama'
There were surprises in store on Monday evening in an arresting show by British designer Giles, held in a sumptuous reception in the Banqueting House, part of the Palace of Whitehall with ceilings painted by Peter Paul Rubens.
A star-studded cast included Eva Herzigova, Poppy Delevingne and Georgia May Jagger, daughter of Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall, who accompanied the model backstage at the show.
The designer invited guests to discover a world of magic in his show, which featured dramatic dark evening gowns and rich patterns of plant and animal motifs.
The show was based on an autumnal palette of silver, grey and earthy colours, with occasional details in teal and red.
In contrast, the collection unveiled by brand Joseph was minimalist and uncluttered, with long and flowing dresses in white, yellow and black that wrapped around the body.
Based this year in the edgy central London neighbourhood of Soho, London Fashion Week will showcase the work of more than 150 designers and host dozens of fashion shows and presentations throughout the city before it ends on Tuesday.
AFP
Tue Sep 22 2015
Models present creations during the Burberry Prorsum spring / summer 2016 collection show at London Fashion Week in London on September 21, 2015. - AFP Photo/Justin Tallis
ISIS Malaysia's perspective of Budget 2025
An excellent rakyat-centric budget under the overarching principle of a caring and humane economy.
Budget 2025: Record increase in STR, SARA aid initiatives
The government will provide a significant boost to the Sumbangan Tunai Rahmah (STR) and Sumbangan Asas Rahmah (SARA) initiatives next year.
Budget 2025: EPF contributions to be made mandatory for foreign workers – PM Anwar
The government plans to make it compulsory for all non-citizen workers to contribute to the Employees Provident Fund (EPF).
What policies to expect from Indonesia's new President Prabowo
Prabowo will be open to foreign investment, his aide has said, such as by offering investors management of airports and sea ports.
Budget 2025: Govt allocates RM470 mil to empower women's participation in PMKS
The Women's Leadership Apprenticeship Program will be intensified as an effort to produce more female corporate personalities.
Israel sends more troops into north Gaza, deepens raid
Residents of Jabalia in northern Gaza said Israeli tanks had reached the heart of the camp, using heavy air and ground fire.
Indonesia ramps up security ahead of Prabowo's inauguration
Prabowo Subianto will be sworn in as Indonesia's president on Sunday with Vice President-elect, Gibran Rakabuming Raka, also taking office.
Immediate allocation of RM150 mil for local authorities, DID to tackle flash floods
Datuk Seri Anwar Ibrahim said this allocation is intended to address the recent flash floods that hit the capital and several major towns.
Budget 2025: Sabah, Sarawak to continue receiving among highest allocations - PM
Sabah and Sarawak continues to be prioritised under Budget 2025, with allocations of RM6.7 billion and RM5.9 billion respectively.
NFOF will be operational in November 2024 with funding of RM1 bil
PM Anwar Ibrahim said NFOF will support venture capital fund managers to invest in startup companies with RM300 million set aside for 2025.
Minimum wage to increase to RM1,700 effective Feb 1, 2025
The Progressive Wage Policy would be fully enforced next year with an allocation of RM200 million, benefiting 50,000 workers.
Bursa Malaysia ends higher on Budget 2025 optimism
The benchmark index, which opened 1.85 points higher at 1,643.29, moved between 1,641.71 and 1,649.31 throughout the trading session.
Five important aspects relating to people’s lives in Budget 2025 - PM
The focus is on driving the MADANI Economy, speeding reforms, cutting red tape, raising wages, and tackling the cost of living.
Economic outlook: Govt plans to leverage, expand existing city transit system
The expansion aims to provide a more efficient and reliable public transportation network, reduce congestion, and improve accessibility.
Economic outlook: Budget 2025 to lay foundation for a digital-driven economy
The report said Budget 2025 will entail efforts to position Kuala Lumpur as a top 20 global startup hub by 2030 through the KL20 initiative.
Economic outlook: Corruption and lack of accountability hinder economic progress
Special Cabinet Committee on National governance is established to curb corruption, law reforms to modernise outdate regulations, MoF said.
National Wages Consultative Council will be strengthened
The govt will also incentivise hiring women returning from career breaks, offer job matching and improve care services facilities.
Economic outlook: Ensuring 11 years of compulsory education for all children
Budget 2025 will continue prioritising upskilling and retraining initiatives to equip workers with the latest skill sets necessary.
Consolidated public sector projected to record lower surplus of RM41.7 bil 2024
The MoF said the consolidated general government revenue is estimated to increase slightly to RM384.7 billion in 2024.
PM announces substantial Budget 2025 hastening Malaysia to become Asian economic powerhouse
Datuk Seri Anwar Ibrahim said it would create jobs and also tackle financial leakages to enhance public spending efficiency.