Trend alert: Nautical but nice for next spring

Milan was the biggest champion of the trend, with several fashion labels diving deep into the look.

Florentine house Emilio Pucci set the tone with new designer Massimo Giorgetti at the helm. His collection, which was based on the theme of 'Urban mermaids', was awash with oceanic references, from the shells, corals and starfish that covered the pieces to the fishnet tops and the pleated metallic separates that fell asymmetrically to the floor, glimmering like scales.

The models even wore diving goggles, lest the symbolism be lost on the waves. Max Mara chimed in with a collection of its signature chic coats bearing stars and sailor stripes, brass studs and neat bands of Breton blue, while Blugirl got beach-ready with boathouse stripes and mini shorts.

In New York the look was subtler and more detail-oriented, with toggles and rope lending a discreet naval vibe to the collections.

Rebecca Minkoff used eyelets and cord fastenings to close necklines, while Derek Lam dotted silver naval buttons along the pockets of his tailored trousers and Kate Spade New York succumbed to a maritime stripe.

In London and Paris the trend was referenced through netting, with mesh tops and laser cut-away motifs stealing the show.

Sibling paired a floor-length fishnet dress with a pair of stilettos boasting a sharply striped ankle-strap, while Paul Smith mixed a coral mesh vest with a grey tailored suit for a laidback vibe and used white rope twisted into boating knots to cinch in waistlines.

In Paris, Mugler's show opened with a series of sharp ensembles in navy and white with contrasting flat buttons riffing on a naval aesthetic, and Issey Miyake presented a series of wave-effect skirts and dresses.